5-Step Buyer's Guide
5-Step Buyer's Guide
The paradox of landscape lighting
is that "less is more". By strategically locating
fixtures around a structure, pools of light contrast with dark
areas. It is this inter-play of light and shadow which creates
visual impact.
Each installation is custom
designed - tailored to the special characteristics of the
foliage or building and human activities. With an
understanding of the lighting
effects in mind, it is time to make decisions.
- What sections and/or objects are to be illuminated?
- What combination of optics/beam
spread, lamp source and wattage will give the desired effect?
- How much wattage will these systems consume.
This 5-step Buyer's Guide will
help you in the decision-making process. Top
of Page
Create a plan. Drawing up a lighting plan is
critical and it will be referred to many times. Important
points to include in the layout are: house outline, walks,
patios, decks and pools. Mark in all these areas previously
identified for lighting. It is also imperative to show the
location of line voltage power supplies. Click here to see an interactive
example of a property sketch which includes lighting effect
suggestions, cable runs, splicing and line voltage power
supply locations.
To create your plan, begin by
walking around the property with an objective eye. The front
sidewalk or driveway is a natural starting point. Sketch the
structure (house or office building) in context of the lot,
and make note of trees for uplighting, interesting textures,
signs or address markers and colorful flower beds. Lighting
invites people into a space by making it reassuring and
alluring. Both interior and exterior spaces will benefit from
the sparkle of lamp sources that have superior color rendering
capabilities.
Note areas for lighting. Make a list of all the areas and
items that are candidates for lighting, then rank them in
order of importance. Again, remember to plan conservatively.
Low voltage lamps are, on average, three times brighter per
watt than line voltage lamps. Try to visualize driving up to
the house or business first from one direction, then from the
other. It is usually more attractive to accent areas
throughout the setting rather than creating even light
distribution. Top of Page
2. Decide on lighting effects. Select
fixtures, light bulbs and accessories that
will produce the desired effect.
The next step is to pencil in the
placement of path and directional fixtures. Path lights are used for walkways,
flower beds and ground cover areas. With a narrow sidewalk,
stagger the lighting from one side to the other; however, a
uniform row of fixtures works very well for a wide walkway or
driveway. Well lights are
effective for aiming light up a tree or column; they should be located 1'-4'
out from the trunk. Step lights
illuminate risers so people can move about with confidence. As
the name implies, directional lights
aim a beam directly at objects or things. They could be hidden
under shrubs.
Achieve
the desired effect with the correct light bulb.
There are two variables to be decided upon when working on
your landscape lighting plan: the distance the light must
project; and the diameter and shape of the area the light will
illuminate. The distance a lamp must project is a function of
the fixture's distance from the tree, wall or sculpture. The
diameter and shape of the area the light will illuminate is a
function of the bulb's beam spread. Directional fixtures offer
a range of lamp wattages and beam spreads from Very Narrow
Spotlight to Wide Flood. Top of Page
3. Select a transformer with the
desired options for controlling your landscape lighting
system.
The transformer is plugged or
hard-wired into a 120 volt GFI receptacle, and it steps-down
the line voltage to 12V low voltage. Microsun offers two
different wattage capacity transformers (300W and 600W), both
UL listed for wet locations.
The transformer size decision is
a simple calculation - how much total wattage will be on the
system?
Having selected the fixtures and
lamps, it should be easy to add up the individual lamp
wattage. A good rule of thumb is not to exceed 80% of the
rated transformer capacity. For example, five path lights at
18W each together with three directional fixtures at 50W each
add up to 240 watts total - a 300W transformer is perfect. Or
you could choose a 600W transformer to give yourself leeway
for adding fixtures in the future.
Yards and landscaped areas are
not static; a tree may come down, several new ones planted, a
patio enlarged. By planning ahead, it is no problem to add
fixtures later. Extra capacity also allows for an increase of
lamp wattage, if a brighter lamp is desired in a directional
fixture, or the addition of more fixtures. Top of Page
4. Determine cable length and design
options for cable runs.
Cable is the final component to
be ordered. The length of the cable is dependent on the number
of fixtures which, when added up, give you your total system
wattage. There is an inverse relationship between watts and
distance: the greater the wattage total, the shorter the cable
run.
Patented Pigtail Connector. All low voltage landscape
fixtures have a patented 5' long PIGTAIL
CONNECTOR that provides for quick and easy connection to
the cable. This unique design allows the nickel-plated
beryllium copper connector pins to pierce the cable and make
electrical contact inside the insulation. No moisture ever
intrudes into the contact area. One of the main advantages of
the low voltage (12V) system is that you don't cut and splice
the main cable, eliminating voltage drop and conductor
corrosion.
Installing fixtures with a dual
circuit. More
efficient power distribution is the major advantage of our DUAL
CIRCUIT DESIGN. The three conductors in the heavy-gauge
10/3 wire allow longer cable runs and more uniform light
output. Fixtures should be alternated from one circuit to the
other along the cable so the load is balanced. With a 300W
transformer, the goal is less than 150W per circuit.
Design options for cable runs. Running cable from the
transformer to the individual fixtures can be done in several
different ways. The location of the GFI receptacle, and hence
the transformer, may make your decision for you. Top of Page
EXAMPLE
A - SINGLE FEED.
One cable exiting the transformer. This linear arrangement is
the most common approach. One 300W transformer with a 220W
total load (110W per circuit). Recommended maximum cable
length is 215'.
EXAMPLE B
- DUAL FEED. Two
separate cables exiting the transformer (possibly one to the
front yard, one to the back yard). Cables may be unequal in
length. One 600W transformer with one of the cables
maintaining a 300W total load (150W per circuit), and the
second cable maintaining a 200W total load (100W per circuit).
Recommended maximum length for the first cable is 150'.
Recommended maximum length for the second cable is 225'.
EXAMPLE C - LOOP
FEED. One continuous
cable coming back around to the transformer. One 300W
transformer with 150W total load (75W per circuit).
Recommended maximum cable loop is 650'. Top of Page
Maximum Recommended Cable Lengths (in
feet) Voltage drop is a consideration when
planning longer cable runs. Once you have determined whether
you will use a SINGLE, DUAL or LOOP
feed cable run, the following chart will recommend the maximum
cable length for your run.
The cable lengths below are
conservative. If the recommended lengths are exceeded, the
following may occur:
-
Fluorescent lights near the
end of the cable run may not start (particularly in cold
weather).
-
Retractable Bollards near the end of the cable run may fail to charge the
internal battery (particularly in cold weather).
-
Incandescent fixtures may
become slightly dimmer the further you get away from the
power supply.
Maximum Recommended Cable Length |
| |
One 300W Transformer |
One 600W Transformer |
Total Wattage of Fixtures
on the Cable Run(s) |
STRAIGHT Feed
Maximum Cable Length in Feet |
LOOP Feed
Maximum Cable Length in Feet |
STRAIGHT Feed
Maximum Cable Length in Feet |
LOOP Feed
Maximum Cable Length in Feet |
100W |
450 |
900 |
450 |
900 |
150W |
325 |
650 |
325 |
650 |
200W |
225 |
450 |
225 |
450 |
250W |
175 |
350 |
175 |
350 |
300W |
150 |
300 |
150 |
300 |
350W |
- |
- |
125 |
250 |
400W |
- |
- |
100 |
200 |
450W |
- |
- |
90 |
180 |
500W |
- |
- |
80 |
160 |
550W |
- |
- |
75 |
150 |
600W |
- |
- |
70 |
140 |
1. Straight feed cable lengths shown
above can be cut in equal or unequal lengths to create DUAL
FEED applications. Fixtures should be alternated
from one circuit to the other along the cable to maintain
a balanced load. With a 300W transformer, the goal is <=
150W per circuit. Top of Page
|
Installing the system will be smooth and uncomplicated with
preplanning. Once you have the tools
and system elements ready, our 6-step
installation guide will walk you through the process of
installing your new low voltage landscape lighting system.
Tools: It will be
very helpful to have the following tools close at hand: hammer,
pliers, slotted-head screwdriver, phillips screwdriver, wire
cutters, sharp knife, wire stripper, hack saw, drill and shovel.
System Elements: Your landscape
products will arrive in individually packed cartons. Protective
material surrounds each fixture. Stakes are not attached, but are in
the same box. An installation instruction sheet is included in every
box, and in the case of path lights, the lamp will be in the socket.
The cable, cut to your specified length, is boxed separately.
Ordered lamps and accessories such as colored lenses arrive in their
own cartons. Top of Page
|